home

the trip from montevideo home was a long one, with a giant (tall) man trapped beside us the whole flight. it seems like that’s always the case. the taller you are, i think the surer it is you will be crammed into the tiniest space. it was bittersweet to leave & while i’m glad to be home, unpacked, back in my studio & near avocados again, i miss a lot about uruguay, and the people, the quiet moments running by the beach, & long drives to find bodegas each day are what i imagine will stay with me the most.

canelones

these past few weeks in canelones & nearby have been busy, but so good. we’ve seen close to 20 bodegas, have gotten to hear their stories & spend time with the winemakers & families at each one. i’ve held back a little on sharing, only because david will share quite a bit soon, but we’ve loved getting to know these people & see a small glimpse of who they are & how they love what they do. the winemakers could not be more hilarious or different…all either 3rd or 4th generation from france, italy, or spain. some loud, all passionate, some really deep & too philosophical for us to follow (in spanish anyway), and all the happiest in the dirt, near their vines…they love what they do.

a month in montevideo

it’s 7:45 in the evening, the sun is still bright but softening, and the streets are finally still & quiet outside. shutters are opening & people are coming out to spend the evening on their balconies again. i have a little time before dinner & all week i have been meaning to get this written down so i don’t forget.

two &  a half years ago, i can remember the day, i remember david asking me if i thought he could make it in the wine industry.  a week later, he’d bought every wine book available to man. within days he’d finished & for the next year, he read cover to cover & cover to cover, and taught himself everything he could. i’ve never seen anyone come so alive, so quickly, and the past two & a half years have been the best, to watch him be alive & learn & change. that year ended, he changed careers & we moved california, where he first tasted uruguayan wines. i won’t ever forget. he came home the day he tasted them more excited than i’d ever seen. and now, after thinking, processing, weighing our next steps, hundreds of cups of coffee, i’m sitting across from him in a tiny apartment in uruguay, overlooking a small stone street, at the end of a week meeting with winemakers, beginning to import uruguayan wine.

a week ago, i was trying to cram eight pairs of shoes into a suitcase…really i only needed two. a year ago, i could have never anticipated where we’d be. 

the view from our apartment in ciudad vieja. it’s a short walk to the ocean from here.

every evening the old man living on this corner balcony looks out over the street in his underwear.

this door is my favorite, on the way to the beach…i would like to make an offer on it.

our grocery store below us, where milk comes in bags…i have renewed appreciation for milk cartons now. on tuesdays & fridays, there’s a farmer’s market at the end of our street where we get lots of good things.

a street nearby…everything here reminds me so much of europe. the architecture, old trees, shaded streets, the markets…but more chill.. & people drinking mate everywhere.

so far we love it. we have a full week of meetings again with producers this week & i will have more soon. xo

tango in the city centre

i love this city. we were walking back from the beach tonight through the city centre & stumbled past a plaza full of people dancing the tango outside. only here…uruguay has so much character.

this man was playing to the music on his harmonica.

four days in buenos aires

last weekend, a little jet-lagged, david & i dropped our bags off in uruguay & caught a ferry to buenos aires for a small getaway before meetings with winemakers began. our hotel was beautiful, an old, restored palace, on a shaded street. we had such good time together. long runs. quiet mornings. sidewalk cafes. long runs to balance dulce de leche by the bowlful. we wandered a lot, found a flea market of antiques, drank fresh squeezed orange juice off the street & fell in love with the parrilladas & empanadas there. i found plenty in all the cafes & random people to be inspired by.